Paddling Whitewater in North Queensland

Herbert River

By Andrew
Paddlers: Lynn, Tim, Chris, Michael, Declan, Markus, Andrew
River Levels: Herbert Glen Eagle 1.22 Grade 3-4

Described as one of the classic Australian river trips, this one lived up to expectations. A spectacular mix of gorgeous scenery and heart-stopping whitewater, it was well worth the effort, and much effort was required, particularly getting onto and off the river!

Section starts at the site of tribal council for Survivor Australia

The Herbert is truly a back-country trip. A long drive in, an overnight camp, more driving, then a pretty brutal walk in to the river. Both boats and paddlers took a bit of a beating as we battled our way down to the river, the walk in taking about an hour down a steep hillside following a dry creek and a vaguely marked trail. At one stage Tim dropped his boat and it ended up bouncing off rocks about 50m below him. But since he had a trusty Wavesport Diesel, not a dodgy Dagger, all was good.Taking no chances with swine flu around

Shuttle car loaded up

Getting down to the bottom though, we found ourselves in a spectacular natural amphitheatre-like gorge with a sweet sandy beach – our first night’s camp on the river, just above the first (of many) waterfalls.

camping = good.

The next morning we were confronted with our first rapid on the river – a 7m waterfall “Dog-Leg” falls with a difficult ferry on the approach to the main drop! After much discussion we decided that the only fair thing would be to draw straws to work out who was to run this thing first……Tim drew the short straw and got ready to go as the rest of us got our cameras out and prepared to record any carnage. He ran it like a pro, of course, which eased the rest of our nerves a little. We followed the Master down, with various degrees of success, Declan having a second crack as he paddled Lynn’s boat for her.Short straw first - Tim on Dog-leg falls.

Next up a cool shoot, then off to double falls. The setting and surroundings to this waterfall has to be seen to be believed truly awe-inspiring. We all gave the first drop a go, and seeing the look on Chris’s face as Lynn confidently tucked up and ran the drop was priceless! There were some good line, better lines, and downright dodgy lines. Tim laid claim to two of these, after first going over at about 45 degrees and getting what he described as a flat hand slap to side of the face, he had a second much classier go.

Lynn - like a pro on 20ft falls

The second part of double falls presents more of a problem, its higher at about 9-10m and has a rock in the bottom left. Not a move to mess up, and ohh what a sweet feeling when you pop up at the bottom.Double Falls, Tim, Chris, Declan..nervous


Tim: Double Falls.

The last falls, 20ft falls, topped off what I consider one of the best days paddling I’ve experienced. Four big waterfalls, some very nice rapids, magnificent scenery, and even some above average company too.

The following two days gave us more great scenery and paddling, although the water level was a bit low through these sections, requiring lots of bumping and scraping through boulder gardens. The toll on my boat was bitter, a big crack appearing after one particularly rocky rapid, and duct tape held it together through the rest of our trip.

Camping was great too, sandy beaches, plenty of wood, and even a fish or two if you are lucky and very patient. Daily coffee ritual.


Reaching the end of the major part of the river, paddlers have a choice. You can have a helicopter meet the group to take you off the river, you can continue paddling for another day through a mainly flatwater section inhabited by saltwater crocodiles, or you can walk out up a fairly significant hill. Being too cheap to pay for a helicopter and too scared to paddle with the crocs, we walked up the hill……

Smiling before the walk out.

We thought we were prepared – we had heard about this walk out, described by one paddling strongman as the worst thing he’d ever experienced – but I think we found that nothing could prepare us for this.GORGEous paddling

A 380m vertical rise over about 1km, this walk out, with fully loaded creek boats, was a death march. Paddlers were scattered all over the trail, gear discarded along the track, people found sitting on their boats, senseless, half way up. It was like a scene from the Normandy D-Day landings. Upon reaching the top Lynn was heard to say that next time she’d take her chances with the crocodiles. All in all, a fabulous few days on what must be one of Australia’s most spectacular rivers.


The Tully:

By Tim Section: Power Station to Campsite Level: 22MW, 44MW, 44MW Team: Andrew, Chris, Declan, Lynn, Tim, Markus, Michael,
Grade 4

We had great expectation of the Tully after all of Shamus O Malley (III)’s stories, and much to our disappointment it didn’t disappoint at all. It’s an odd river, powered by hydro release, water levels changing at the whim of the power supply, and all the while littered with hundreds of backpacking rafters punting their way down.

First day, we arrived to no water and a fault with the turbines, but after a short wait the water was back, on we watched it rise, and then in our total apathy fall again followed by a mad rush to get on the water. Even at the low level of 22MW, the steeply dropping river was still good, and quite demandingly technical.Do no evil, think no evil, hear no evil, and take no evil photos...

Next day we were greeted with a consistent 44MW being generated giving a good level. The first rapid – a grade 4 aptly named “Alarm Clock” for its ability to wake the unwary paddler, and wake it did. As I scouted and directed below, the team made their way down, avoiding the holes and rocks. Michael, on his birthday, aimed for the eddy river left. With not enough cross current speed the proverbial alarm clock rang, as he was flushed out backwards, and soon upside down going down the main drop sideways and straight onto a rock. Unfortunately, that was the end of Michaels paddling for the week as he nursed a broken rib.

Many cool, technical rapids and drops followed until we lunched and picked up Lynn half way down, after Carsons weir, and headed down to the campsite.

Tim running Carsons weir at low water.

Last day paddling we were slightly disappointed to not get the full 88MW that had been promised. Secretly I think we had all been a bit nervous of dealing with the river, that claims at least one life per year, at double the water level. Main incident today was Andrew, putting on an extreme show for the rafting punters, with a minute long, partly upside-down surf in a hydraulic as the punter looked on horrified.

Overtaking the rafters, we raced down the river, with it still fresh in our minds, behind an on form captain Chris. With the next few months looking bleak, from a paddling perspective, we paddled an extra lower section that ended in a crocodile pool, where we tried to tip out Declan as a decoy, to no avail.

Next day at around 2am we said goodbye to the Tully and headed to the airport, where the previously friendly Virgin staff changed their tune and charged us all excess baggage fees for the first time ever. An awesome week, perhaps something to do a month earlier next year, but a great break from the NSW winter perennial drought!